That means that the image on the camera sensor or film plate is the same size, or even bigger, than the real-life subject. The proper macro photography definition is an image whose subject is reproduced to at least 1:1. You can do this by getting very close to your subject, or by getting a telephoto lens and zooming way in. Macro photography is the art of making tiny things look big. It’s our world but from a new and different perspective. But unlike astro or abstract photography, macros show us a spectacular view of the world that is around us all the time. Macros can seem to transport the viewer into another world.
Nothing catches the eye like a genuinely unique macro photograph. Here are the top 12 tips for Macro Photography and how you can capture amazing macro photos.
Put them so that they seem to ring the main subject.Nothing catches the eye like a genuinely unique macro photograph. Place them so that they appear above the subject (in the background). Instead, compose so that the fairy lights complement the main subject. Fairy light macro photography is no exception. In any type of photography, you want every bit of your photograph to be deliberate. Yes, this will result in an interesting image, but it will probably seem chaotic as well. That is, don’t just let the fairy lights spray randomly throughout the background. I find that there’s a particularly useful guideline for fairy light photography which is to incorporate the fairy lights into the composition. Now you know the basics of fairy light macro photography. This ensures that the fairy lights remain nothing more than out of focus highlights.
#Creative macro photography manual#
I generally hold the lights in front of the lens with my left hand while manual focusing the lens with the other. I held the fairy lights between the lens and the subject in order to ensure the fairy lights remained out of focus and generated strong bokeh for this image. If I’m photographing flowers, I often just drape the lights over other flowers or branches behind the main subject. But it should increase if you are farther from your subject or working with a narrow aperture. This distance can decrease if you’re working at high magnifications or a very wide aperture. #1 – Put the lights a few inches behind the subject There are two general approaches that I recommend for fairy light photography. Place the fairy lights directly behind or in front of the subject You can also switch on Live View, which can be very helpful in such difficult conditions. Instead, switch your lens to manual focus. When working in such dark conditions, your autofocus will hunt and hunt until the light is completely gone and you’re forced to pack up. This is even truer when it comes to fairy light photography. In macro photography, being able to focus manually is often essential. These have the added benefit of being smaller and are therefore easier to handhold. However, you might also work with another fast lens, such as a 50mm f/1.8. Regarding lenses, I usually shoot with a macro lens. This also really causes the fairy lights to stand out. Why? I like that blue twilight aesthetic and I want it to be clear that the image was taken after sundown. The large blobs (lower right) were created by putting some of the lights closer to the camera than the flower.Īs for shutter speed, I meter off the main subject (for me, this is usually a flower), and then deliberately underexpose the image. This image was taken with a shallow aperture to ensure better bokeh. Therefore, when working with fairy lights, I generally stick to my lens’s widest aperture, usually f/2.8. Not only does this let in the most light (to compensate for the lack of ambient lighting), but it also blurs the fairy lights in a more pleasing way. The lens aperture is the easiest setting to choose, widen it as much as possible. What should you use for camera and lens settings?
#Creative macro photography free#
Shoot wide open and feel free to underexpose However, If you like to use a tripod, feel free to stay out later. This is usually in the area of 30 minutes after sunset. I generally shoot until I can no longer handhold my camera. The fairy lights will become more noticeable, and will really pop off the background (which can be good or bad, depending on the look you desire). As the level of ambient light decreases, the overall look offered by the fairy lights will change. If your subject is shaded, or if the day is cloudy, you can start shooting a few minutes before the sun has gone down. I photographed this daisy a few minutes after sunset.
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